Cut-Up Workout T-Shirt Tutorial

Do you have old, boxy t-shirts you'd wear to exercise in if they only had a more flattering fit?  This easy, no-sew tutorial will teach you how to alter (and ventilate! ;-)) your t-shirts into two different styles of cute workout tops--perfect for lifting, climbing, dancing, riding, squatting, jumping, punching, kicking, running or walking!

I teach an exercise class a couple of mornings each week, and several gals who attend asked me about these shirts.  I told them to bring shirts and scissors to class one day, and we did a live tutorial right there in the gym after class!  Two of my favorite things combined into one class!! I was on Cloud 9!

Now, on to your tutorial:

All you need for either of these styles is a cotton jersey knit t-shirt and sharp fabric scissors. 

Style 1: Back Diamond Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay shirt out flat.

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.

4. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams and flattening. 

5. Beginning at the top of the back side, cut 1 inch wide strips all the way down the back. Start with pretty deep strips--4-5 inches from the fold (they will double when you unfold). Then gradually get smaller as you work your way down. My last cut is usually only about 1 inch deep. 

6. Turn shirt so the back is on top. Stretch out cuts so the fabric rolls in on itself. 

7. Take top strip and make a loop. 

8. Take next strip and pull it up through the top loop.

9. Make a loop with the strip you just pulled through. 

10. Continue looping and pulling the strip below through all the way down the shirt. 

11. Leave the last strip loose. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

14. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

15. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

16. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip. 

17. Finished back!

18. Finished front!

Style 2: Side Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay t-shirt out flat. 

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.
4. Beginning 1 inch below the sleeve opening, cut 1 inch wide slits into the sides of the shirt. I begin with about 2 inch slits, gradually get bigger toward the middle of the shirt, then taper back to smaller slits at the end. My last cut is only about 1 inch across.
5. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams.
6. Stretch the strips so the fabric curls in on itself.
7. Pick up the top strip (this should be the bottom part of the sleeve), and turn a single loop in it.
8. Pull the next strip up through the loop.
9. Turn a loop in the strip you just pulled through and continue pulling and turning all the way down the shirt. 

10. When you get to the bottom, leave the last strip alone.

11. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

14. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

15. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip.
16. One side: DONE!
17. Repeat on other side.
18. Cute workout top!

  

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DIY Bubble Shorts from Old Jeans

Baggy jeans or pants can be cut off and altered into ADORABLE bubble shorts for girls. It is a quick and easy alteration, and I will walk you through every step. 

My daughter has a few pairs of hand-me-down pants that aren't the skinny style that is so "in" right now. They are in great shape, but definitely don't look up-to-date and fashionable. One pair was some well-made Hannah Anderson jeans that would likely be too short by the fall, so I decided they would make cute shorts if done right.

Here you get an idea of the way the jeans fit. 

(We had just bought her a new swim suit the day I did this, and she didn't want to change it for this pic, so I didn't push--we choose our battles, right?)

1. With chalk, draw off where you want the shorts to fall on her thigh. I made these a bit longer than some bubble shorts because the jeans are roomy enough in the waist that they may fit her for two summers!

2. Use a ruler or measuring tape to make sure your cut lines are equal distance from the pockets and along the inseam.

 3. Cut off the jean legs.

4. Take one of the cut off legs, and cut along one seam. Lay it out flat.

5. Measure around the thigh of the girl who will be wearing the shorts. Add 2 inches to that measurement. This will be the length of the strips you will cut. 

6.Cut 2 strips from the flattened leg piece that are 3 inches wide by the above length. 

 7. Iron the two strips in half along the length of the strips, wrong sides together. Then fold each piece inward along the length in quarters. These are the bands to give the bottom edge of the shorts a nice, finished look. It could be super cute to do a contrasting fabric here, if desired. 

 8. Sew a gathering stitch around the base of each shorts leg, 1/4 inch from the edge. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the legs to the desired width. I had my daughter try them on at this point to make sure I was leaving plenty of moving room. You could also take the thigh measurement from above (#5) and add 1 inch.

9. Beginning along the inseam, pin the bands around the unfinished edges of each leg, leaving 1/2 inch at each end.

 10. To hide the raw edges of the bands, tuck one end into the other, and turn the edges of the end on top under. Pin carefully in place. (Sewing tip: My non-industrial sewing machine managed this, but I had to proceed slowly, and I started with my machine's presser foot up.)

 11. Sew a top stitch along the top edge of the bands (about 1/8" down).  Sew a vertical top stitch down the closing seam on the inseam (shown in #10). 

And you are done! Instead of raggedy cut-offs, you have stylish, tailored bubble shorts!

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How To Make a Camp Stove from a V8 Can

As you could have guessed, I'm not the only one in my house with a compulsory need to make stuff.  It turns out I'm married to a creative guy, and we have breeded some pretty creative offspring.  :)

So the true author of this post is my 12-year-old son.  He, his 10-year-old brother, and my husband have been on a camp-stove-making journey over the past few months. They have made (and we have used) tuna can stoves, Coke can stoves, and various others. Do an internet search for the various YouTube tutorials out there, and you will see there are many. 

We have had a fair amount of luck with the tuna can stoves, but on the trail they only really burned long enough to make ramen noodles or hot cocoa.  The Coke can stoves burn a bit longer, but are less stable (READ: my husband caught his shirt on fire in my kitchen!).   

This V8 can stove, though tiny, is mighty. It has proven to be stable and more efficient: able to burn for a whopping 17 minutes without needing to re-fuel! 

This stove along with the windscreen pot rack weighs very little and fits nicely in most mess kits, so it easy to bring on any campout--whether you are backpacking or car camping!

To our knowledge, this is the first tutorial for this particular type of stove. My son took all the pictures (and did an amazing job). He was very thorough with each step.  

You will need: 

• 2 empty (5.5oz) V8 cans
• ruler
• hole punch
• sheath metal (3"x 23", available at home improvement store, roofing section)
• needle-nose pliers
• heavy text book
• sharp scissors
• box cutter/ X-acto knife
• push pin
• 3 metal tent stakes
• pocket knife with an awl tool (or other awl-like pointed tool)
• penny
• denatured alcohol (located in paint section at store)

Step 1. Build the  wind screen. This will be a pot stand and a wind screen when you cook with the stove.  Punch two off-set rows of holes on one length of the sheathing.

Use the needle nose pliers at each short end to make folds (one inside, one out, so they can "lock" the screen). Carefully pull the sheathing to make a circle and lock in place with the folds. 

Punch holes near the top of the sheathing (about 1 inch down), close at one end and wide at the other (as shown). This will create a rack for your pot to sit on.

Step 2. Score the cans. Set scissors in the heavy text book so the top blade is 3/4 inch high. Press down on the scissors while turning the can around the open blade. Be sure to only score with the top blade. 

This is what the can will look like once it is scored. 

Step 3. Use the X-Acto knife to cut  the bottom end of the can off, about 1/2 inch above the score line. This cut can, and will be, rough.

Step 4. Remove excess to achieve a smooth edge. This is illustrated in a few pictures.  Make a few cuts from the rough edge to just barely above the score line.

Fold down the loose pieces. This makes room for the scissors to cut.

Cut along score line.

When you get close to the slits you cut, unfold them and cut them off. 

This is what two "clean-cut" cans look like. 

Step 5. Create burner vents.  This is for ONE of the cans--not both.  Set the other can aside. Get your push pin ready. 

Push 6 equally spaced holes into the ridge of the bottom of the can (as shown).  This can be eyeballed to get estimated even spacing.

Step 6.  Use push pin to make 3 holes in center of can bottom. These should be close enough together to be covered by a penny set in the middle of the can bottom. 

The penny should also be able to be moved to the side, still sitting in the can, with all three holes uncovered. 

Step 7. Widen the burner holes. Using an awl or other similiar tool, widen each of the burner holes to about three-times their original size. This is done by applying a bit of pressure and making a twisting motion with the awl. 

This shows how big the holes should be when done. 

Step 8. Making dimples on the can you just punched holes in.  Using needle-nose pliers, pinch the can half-way up the side, directly below one of the burner holes, bending it in at a 15° angle. 

Here is what one dimple looks like. Continue around the can, making a dimple above each burner hole. 

Here it is with a dimple at each hole.  Looks kinda pretty--but you're not done dimpling yet!

Now make another 15° dimple between each one you already made. 

NOW you are done dimpling. Still pretty. Don't stress out if your dimples aren't perfect. 

Step 9. You have one can bottom with all kinds of fancy holes and dimples and one without. 

Place the fancy can into the plain can, as shown. This will be tight, so do this step carefully and evenly. It will be hard to undo a crooked-placed can. 

Congratulations! You have made a V8 Can Camp Stove.  Now to use it...

Step 10. It's time to set up to cook.  Have a lighter ready. Place the penny over the holes. Carefully pour denatured alcohol into the trough, with the penny in place, just until it fills the trough. Move the penny away and let the alcohol drain.  

Replace the penny over the holes. Pour more alcohol into the trough, this time enough to overflow and cover the burner holes (on the outside edge).  Light the alcohol. This will prime the fuel that is already inside the stove. 

Place the windscreen pot stand over the stove.

Slowly set your pot on the stake racks. 

This fuel burns invisibly in daylight. But turn off the light....

And, let it burn! 

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