Dyed Vintage Doily Table Runner

On a recent trip to my visit my folks, my mom pulled out a big bag of doilies. They were yellowed and all had coffee or tea stains, but the loving hands of my grandmothers had made most of them, so my mom couldn't throw them out. She asked if I would like to try to repurpose them. 

You bet I would! I have seen some beautiful repurposed doily creations by crafters and decorators around the blogosphere: added to clothing, pillows, and pieced into table runners. 

Here in the greater Seattle area where I live, we have had one of the rainiest winters on record. I saw an article yesterday that said Seattle has had 3 sunny days since the start of October. THREE. So I shouldn't be surprised that I have been aching to brighten up my house with all the spring colors I can get my hands on. I have even considered painting my dining table white.  

So, naturally, I decided to make a bright, spring table runner with the doilies. I will walk you through the steps of how you can make one for yourself, and give ideas of where to purchase what you need--even the doilies if you don't have heirlooms from your grandmothers. 

YOU WILL NEED: 

Doilies

I found this set of 24 here.

Here is a set of 4 larger ones. 

Dyes/Dye Kits

These kits are so nice because they come with squirt bottles and gloves. I actually used some of these neon colors on my project, I just didn't leave them to "process" for as long as suggested so the colors would be more pastel.
Find this and other kits here.

Large trays/cookie sheets

Protective Gloves

Squirt bottles/ Mixing bottles

STEP 1

Mix your dyes in squirt bottles according to package directions. If some of your doilies are made of synthetic fibers, add a little vinegar to your dye for color sustainability. 

Lay out your doilies on trays. Large ones can be folded in half to fit.  I recommend taking everything outside. It was raining throughout this project, but I didn't let it stop me!

STEP 2

One color at a time, slowly squirt the dye on layers of the doily designs. This part was super exciting for me. I loved how the color contrasts really made the beautiful designs of my grandmothers' handiwork come to life!

Don't worry about the colors bleeding into each other. That should happen. It will soften up the look of the final product. 

STEP 3

Gently squeeze out excess dye from each doily and place them in individual baggies.  Let them sit for 4-8 hours (depending on how bold you want your colors). 

STEP 4

This was an exciting load of laundry to remove from the dryer!

Remove the doilies from the bags straight into your washing machine. Wash with a little detergent and cold water on a gentle cycle. I threw a couple of old towels in with mine as "padding" for the roughness of the machine's agitator.  Tumble dry on low.  Remove and iron. I used spray starch to stiffen mine up a bit. 

STEP 5

Lay out your doilies and decide how you want to arrange them for your table runner. I ended up not using 2 of mine. They may become pillows in the future. 

Pin and Sew

If you look closely, you can see my straight pins holding together the pieces. 

Use a ziz-zag stitch in coordinating thread to sew the pieces together. It will be virtually invisible in the finished product.  I ironed it one more time after sewing. 

My little dining room feels much more ready for Spring! I smile every time I look in at the happy color and think of my sweet grandmothers and the time they spent making beauty for their homes. I am so grateful these special pieces of art were preserved.

The Bowerbird Shift Pattern Review

I tested this cowl neck dress or top pattern back in October.  It is a lovely design, with a flowy feel, a flattering tie-waist, and pockets (even on the shirt version!). 

Lindsey from Sew To Grow is the designer. I have tested a few of her other patterns (The Bondi Top, The Noosa Shift), and once again, I was impressed.  Lindsey is thorough in her instructions, so that even a novice sewist could handle this construction. 

I made the dress first, and liked it so much that I decided to make a top as well.  Every time I wear this dress, I receive compliments on it. 

Did I say how much I love that it has pockets??

I used a light rayon print for this dress.  I found similar here and here. 

For the Bowerbird shirt, I used a synthetic grey knit (similar here).  When I make another dress or top, I will use a knit again. I really love the way the cowl neck naturally falls with the knit fabric. 

To purchase this pattern, go here:

Sew To Grow Etsy

or 

Sew To Grow (AU)

The Bondi Top Pattern Review

I have a friend named Lindsey Rae who designs patterns, and I have been a pattern tester for her in 

the past (see my Noosa Shift Dress Pattern Review). Her patterns are amazingly simple, well-written, thoroughly tested, and flattering on any figure. 

The Bondi Top was the pattern that really launched her career as a designer, so I have been excited to try it out. I finally made my first Bondi Top a couple of weeks ago, and I loved it so much that I made myself 2 more!

Why I love this pattern: 

• It is downloadable (available HERE from Etsy). Pattern downloads are super easy to store and replicate if you want to make new sizes. 
• It is adjustable for size AND length. I have a long torso, so I added 2 inches to the length and loved the result!
• It is a tad bit longer in the back than the front, which makes for a flattering fit. 
• It has a contrasting fabric option. Don't you LOVE the additional print design on each of the shirts?! 
• And probably my favorite feature: It requires NO notions. No zippers, buttons, ties, or hooks. Just fabric and thread. 

I used 3 different types of fabric for my shirts: lightweight cotton for the yellow and blue shirt above; rayon for the next shirt pictured; and a woven cotton/poly fabric for the third shirt. 

Similar lightweight cottons to those in my yellow and blue shirt can be found HERE.

 This silky rayon is dreamy to wear. It was more time-consuming to sew because I had to pin more since the fabric is more slippery, but it was worth every minute. Similar fabric can be found HERE. 

This was such a fun fabric. It has that Aztec/Peruvian blanket or poncho style, but is less heavy. Similar woven fabric can be found HERE. The contrast fabric is a woven cotton linen/twill; similar (but without print) found HERE.

My colorful and original jewelry is from one of my favorite charities, African Promise Foundation. I know the founder and can vouch for this organization's commitment to bettering the lives of the less-fortunate through beautiful hand-made jewelry sales. 

Vintage Lace Table Runner

Layers of vintage lace make this one-of-a kind runner perfect on your dining or console table. It goes with any decor and looks fabulous layered over other runners or tablecloths!

I recently bought a bag of vintage lace pieces on a boutique deal. I have since discovered that Amazon carries the same thing for a great price and free shipping. You can get an assortment of cream or white lace, or if you like to mix it up, some of both!

   

This is also a super way for crafters to use up old lace scraps that, if you are like me, you never throw away!

To make your own Vintage Lace Table Runner, you will need: 

• 12 yards Vintage Lace, varied styles
• Cutting Mat, Ruler, and Rotary Cutter 

    

• Sewing pins
• Sewing machine

Instructions: 

1. Determine how wide you want your table runner, and add an inch. Cut your lace pieces to this length using the ruler and mat to make straight cuts. I wanted a 12 inch runner, so I made my lace 13 inches. 

2. Pin lace layers together in about 2 foot sections, overlapping just enough to sew (about 1/4 inch).  Use plenty of pins! Lace can be slippery!

3. Once you have three 2-foot sections, pin those sections together and sew.  If you find (as I did) that the lace stretched or slipped some and your edges aren't as clean as you want, don't worry! This is why you added that inch at the beginning!

4. Iron the runner if needed, then use the ruler and mat to carefully square up the entire runner. Take your time so you get it right! 

And you are done! I hope you love your new runner as much as I love mine! 

Sharing at these link-ups. 

Giant Bean Bag Chair Tutorial

Making your own giant bean bag is the way to go!  These comfy, foam-filled chairs cost upwards of $300 to buy new, and by making one yourself, you can not only save a ton of $$$, but you can customize with fabric you love, and know it is made well!!

Y'all, it is really amazing I am just now sharing this tutorial. I have homemade bean bag chairs all over my house, so it is probably the sewing lesson I have shared via word-of-mouth the most! FINALLY I am sharing it here!

I will show you what you need, where to get it, and how to put it together, so your giant bean bag will last you for years and years to come!

To make a 50" diameter, 28" high bean bag chair,

YOU WILL NEED: 

• 6 yards of 60" wide inexpensive fabric. This is for the insert, so the fabric won't be seen. I paid $1-2/yard for some plain white cotton quilting fabric.
• 6 yards of 60" wide heavier, comfortable fabric. I have used denim, corduroy, decorator fabric, and velour. This is the fabric you will feel, so make sure you not only like the look, but also the way it rubs your skin. 
• 1 LONG zipper. I recommend 48" at minimum for this size chair. Many fabric stores sell zippers-by-the-yard. I have used these and they work great for this project. 
• Shredded Foam Filler. My source for this can be found HERE.  You will need approximately 45 lbs of foam for one large bag. The 36"x 36"x 48" (30lb) size ($34.99 at time of publishing this post)  and two of the 8lb sizes ($12.99) to make one Giant Beanbag Chair. If you are making more than one (or want to do this project with a friend!) you can get free shipping with a $75+ order. Three large (30lb) orders would be perfect for two chairs. 
• One note about the foam: I have been SO pleased with this foam. We have had one of our beanbags for over 5 years, and it still returns to its original poofy-ness. But be warned, it comes vacuum-sealed, so as soon as you open it to fill your bags, the foam expands LIKE MAD. So I recommend waiting to open your packages until you are ready to fill; then place the whole package inside the bag to open.  You'll thank me, I assure you.

TO  CUT OUT AND ASSEMBLE: 

1. MEASURE AND CUT CIRCLES. Beginning with your insert fabric, cut two circles with a circumference of 170 inches. I fold my fabric over on itself enough to cut 2 at once.  

The easiest way to measure is via the radius of the circle, which is 27".   Cut a string about 40 inches long and tie one end to a pen or straight pin. This will be your pivot point. 

 Tie the other end to a piece of chalk or a fabric pencil, making the string exactly 27 inches long from tied-end to tied-end.  Find the approximate center of the area on the fabric you will be drawing your circle, and hold the pivot end in place there. Extend the string until it is taut, then use the chalk to draw a perfect circle. Cut out both circles.

Repeat with your nicer cover fabric.

If you have a friend who can hold the pivot in place, it makes the drawing a bit easier. 

2. MEASURE AND CUT RECTANGLES. From each kind of fabric, measure and cut out two rectangles, 87" long by 32" wide. 

3. SEW ONE END OF RECTANGLES TOGETHER. With right sides together, pin and sew the two rectangles together across the shorter (32") side.  Now you will have one long rectangle, 32"wide x 170+" long.  Do this for each kind of fabric.

Now that your pattern is cut, you are ready to assemble!

ASSEMBLY CHART

4. PIN ONE CIRCLE TO RECTANGLE and SEW IN PLACE.  With right sides together, pin one circle to the long side of the rectangle. Sew in place with a 1/4-1/2 inch seam allowance (depending on your fabric/ sewing machine. Heavier fabrics should have a larger seam allowance, but if you have a serger, 1/4 inch will be strong enough). 

Sew the final short ends of the rectangle (right sides together) after you have attached it to the first circle to make sure everything lines up well. 

5. PIN & SEW THE ZIPPER and THE BOTTOM SEAM*.  With right sides together, pin the second circle to the bottom side of the rectangle, leaving space for the length of the zipper. Pin the zipper in place. (I have a zipper tutorial HERE in steps 6-12 of my T-Shirt Pillow Tutorial). 

*Adding a zipper to the insert is optional. You can leave a 2-3 foot opening for filling the insert with foam, then sew it closed.

6.FILL INSERT WITH FOAM. It is in your best interest to follow my next advice carefully! Place the package of foam INSIDE the insert before you open it and expose it to air. It will expand like crazy, and the foam is super static-electric, so it sticks to everything. Once the insert is filled, pin it closed, then sew it up!  (Or zip it up if you made your insert with a zipper!)

7. STUFF INSERT INTO COVER. This is where you will be glad you got a mondo-big-o zipper. Once the insert is in, zip it up, and you are done! 

Sharing at some of these link-ups.