Vintage Lace Table Runner

Layers of vintage lace make this one-of-a kind runner perfect on your dining or console table. It goes with any decor and looks fabulous layered over other runners or tablecloths!

I recently bought a bag of vintage lace pieces on a boutique deal. I have since discovered that Amazon carries the same thing for a great price and free shipping. You can get an assortment of cream or white lace, or if you like to mix it up, some of both!

   

This is also a super way for crafters to use up old lace scraps that, if you are like me, you never throw away!

To make your own Vintage Lace Table Runner, you will need: 

• 12 yards Vintage Lace, varied styles
• Cutting Mat, Ruler, and Rotary Cutter 

    

• Sewing pins
• Sewing machine

Instructions: 

1. Determine how wide you want your table runner, and add an inch. Cut your lace pieces to this length using the ruler and mat to make straight cuts. I wanted a 12 inch runner, so I made my lace 13 inches. 

2. Pin lace layers together in about 2 foot sections, overlapping just enough to sew (about 1/4 inch).  Use plenty of pins! Lace can be slippery!

3. Once you have three 2-foot sections, pin those sections together and sew.  If you find (as I did) that the lace stretched or slipped some and your edges aren't as clean as you want, don't worry! This is why you added that inch at the beginning!

4. Iron the runner if needed, then use the ruler and mat to carefully square up the entire runner. Take your time so you get it right! 

And you are done! I hope you love your new runner as much as I love mine! 

Sharing at these link-ups. 

Cut-Up Workout T-Shirt Tutorial

Do you have old, boxy t-shirts you'd wear to exercise in if they only had a more flattering fit?  This easy, no-sew tutorial will teach you how to alter (and ventilate! ;-)) your t-shirts into two different styles of cute workout tops--perfect for lifting, climbing, dancing, riding, squatting, jumping, punching, kicking, running or walking!

I teach an exercise class a couple of mornings each week, and several gals who attend asked me about these shirts.  I told them to bring shirts and scissors to class one day, and we did a live tutorial right there in the gym after class!  Two of my favorite things combined into one class!! I was on Cloud 9!

Now, on to your tutorial:

All you need for either of these styles is a cotton jersey knit t-shirt and sharp fabric scissors. 

Style 1: Back Diamond Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay shirt out flat.

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.

4. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams and flattening. 

5. Beginning at the top of the back side, cut 1 inch wide strips all the way down the back. Start with pretty deep strips--4-5 inches from the fold (they will double when you unfold). Then gradually get smaller as you work your way down. My last cut is usually only about 1 inch deep. 

6. Turn shirt so the back is on top. Stretch out cuts so the fabric rolls in on itself. 

7. Take top strip and make a loop. 

8. Take next strip and pull it up through the top loop.

9. Make a loop with the strip you just pulled through. 

10. Continue looping and pulling the strip below through all the way down the shirt. 

11. Leave the last strip loose. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

14. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

15. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

16. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip. 

17. Finished back!

18. Finished front!

Style 2: Side Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay t-shirt out flat. 

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.
4. Beginning 1 inch below the sleeve opening, cut 1 inch wide slits into the sides of the shirt. I begin with about 2 inch slits, gradually get bigger toward the middle of the shirt, then taper back to smaller slits at the end. My last cut is only about 1 inch across.
5. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams.
6. Stretch the strips so the fabric curls in on itself.
7. Pick up the top strip (this should be the bottom part of the sleeve), and turn a single loop in it.
8. Pull the next strip up through the loop.
9. Turn a loop in the strip you just pulled through and continue pulling and turning all the way down the shirt. 

10. When you get to the bottom, leave the last strip alone.

11. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

14. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

15. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip.
16. One side: DONE!
17. Repeat on other side.
18. Cute workout top!

  

Sharing at these link-ups. 

DIY Modern Yarn Wall Hanging

My sister sent me a picture of one of these wall hangings she found on Etsy a while back and I was immediately swooning. I love modern home decor--especially of the hand-made variety. 

So when my 5 year old and I had a movie night together and she chose Disney's original animated Peter Pan (which I love, but could enjoy without my eyes glued to the screen!), I sat next to her on the couch and cut yarn for my wall hanging! 

What is fun about these is that no two will ever be the same--especially if you use a branch as your anchor! Many I have seen on the interwebs use a wooden dowel at the top. I don't have rustic style, but I do like adding natural elements where I can.  I definitely prefer the look the branch gives my hanging to a plain dowel. 

I will walk you through my process of making one of these hip yarn creations. Other methods exist, but this way worked well for me, and I think you will find it easy as well!

You will need: 

• A sturdy stick or small branch 
• Yarn
• Scissors
• Optional: Iron and spray starch

1. Cut yarn in several lengths that are double the length you want your hanging's height to be.  I won't give you a number here since it varies so much according to the size of your stick. 

*Tip: I pulled out 20-30 lengths of yarn at a time in long, even loops, then just cut the ends off one side to get several equal strings cut at once. 

2. Make a plan for how the colors will be arranged on your stick. I decided to do a bit of an ombre fade.  

3. Tie the yarn on the stick as shown in the pictures.  Push the tied-ends right up next to each other to really fill in the wood. 

4. This is optional, but is nice if you want your yarn really straight. With the proper heat setting for the type of yarn you are using, iron the yarn to get out any little unwanted wrinkles. Spray starch is also helpful for making the yarn nice and stiff before you cut it. 

5. Use sharp scissors to trim the bottom of the yarn to your desired shape. I found it helped to hang it the way it will go on the wall to make sure all the threads are in place. 

6. Tie another piece of yarn to each end of your stick to use as a hanger, and you are done!

These are great additions to gallery walls. They add nice natural texture to any room and can be made in whatever color and size you want! 

Sharing at these link-ups. 

How to Refinish Wrought Iron Patio Furniture

Wrought iron patio furniture has a timeless style.... IF you maintain its finish. The good news is that it is super easy and inexpensive to refinish your wrought iron!  And if you are like me, refinishing is the perfect opportunity to add bright color to your backyard!

We have had our wrought iron furniture for 7+ years--all of which was in humid climates.  It has held up remarkably well, but the time had definitely come for a new coat of paint. 

All you need to make your wrought iron like new is: 

• Wire brush

• Sandpaper

• Rust-resistant Spray Paint I used 7 cans to cover 1 large round table and 5 chairs. I bought mine at a local store for about $4/can.  I already had the other materials, so my entire cost was $30. Pretty awesome!

         

• Old cloth rag or towel

• Drop Cloths/ tarps/ or large sheets of paper 

Directions: 

1. Use the wire brush and sand paper to remove old flaky paint and rust from your furniture. The wire brush worked especially well on all the welded joints. The sandpaper was great on the flat surfaces. This will not only give your finished product a smooth finish, but it will ensure that the new paint sticks well. 

2. Using an old cloth rag, wipe down the furniture to remove dust. 

3. Lay out drop cloths. I have a ton of drafting paper, so I used sheets of that as my drop cloths. Place furniture on cloths.

4. Spray about 10-12 inches from the metal using short back and forth sweeps. Don't spend too much time in one area to avoid drips forming. Let dry according to directions on the can. 

My table top was easy to remove from the legs with a pair of pliers. Just 4 little hex nuts to take off. Be sure to allow plenty of room for over-spray when you lay out your drop cloths--especially if it's windy. 

Here are my legs all laid out. I painted one side in the morning and the other side in the afternoon. I did the same for my chairs--allowing 8-10 hrs before turning them. 

This also shows how dirty your wiping cloth will get. Be sure it's one you don't care about!

The paint I used mostly covered in one coat. I went back over it to do touch ups, but a full second coat wasn't required. 

I LOVE looking out my back window at bright colors! I have always loved color, but I think I crave it even more now that I live in the Pacific Northwest where it is so often cloudy!

Sharing at these link-ups.

Hardware Close-ups: