Showing posts with label instructions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label instructions. Show all posts

Thursday, October 29, 2015

DIY Adult Anna Costume



My youngest, baby, only 5-year-old daughter asked me to be Anna.  That was pretty much all it took.  I had to seize this moment! Who knows if she'll ever ask me to dress up alongside her for Halloween again?!! 

I made my costume in a day. This included going to Wal-Mart to buy all the supplies. (Yes, they were ALL from Wal-Mart--so INEXPENSIVE--Yay!). 

I already had my white blouse and black boots. If you don't have these in your wardrobe already, borrow or try a thrift store to keep the costume cost down.  I also already had the pom pom trim, but similar can be found here or at most fabric stores. 

Here's the breakdown of the supplies and their cost: 

 For the Anna Dress: 
  1. I used 1 yard of blue jersey knit fabric and followed THIS TUTORIAL from Altered Cloth to make this simple gathered skirt.  
  2. I trimmed the bottom edge of a black camisole to have an angular scallop at the front like Anna's dress does. 
  3. I pinned, then sewed on the gold trim--just on the front of the bodice and neckline--and over the straps. 
  4. I used chalk to outline the flowers for the bottom of the skirt and the front decoration on the camisole.
  5. I used fabric paint to draw over the chalk drawings I made. 

For the Anna Cape: 
  1. I used 3 yards of 55"(ish) fleece and THIS TUTORIAL from Skip to My Lou to cut out the two pieces of the cape. The three yards helped it to fit an adult instead of a child (as in the original tutorial). 
  2. I sewed pom pom trim to the edge of the capelet (instead of hot gluing--faster and less frustrating!)
  3. I layered a strip of leftover fleece (for a tie) between the necks of the caplet and cape and sewed them all together (instead of hot-gluing). A ribbon would work well here, too, but I didn't have any that matched on hand. 

And that's it! Anna is ready!

My costume was a HIT at our church Trunk-or-Treat! There were 2 or 3 little Annas there who would stare up at me with gaping mouths when I said hi! :) And my daughter didn't want to leave my side! She said we were sisters and had to go around together! That made this definitely worth a last-minute effort!


Monday, October 19, 2015

Contrast Sleeve T-Shirt Tutorial


I have an abundance of T-shirts. If I see them on sale for $5 or $6, I grab them because they are my go-to comfy top. But the same old solid tees get boring, so I decided to do some sprucing up to a plain t-shirt by adding contrasting sleeves.  I've seen similar shirts at boutiques all over the place for $20-30.  This shirt was about $5 and the fabric I used was from my scrap pile! 

This is one my most basic tutorials--a perfect one for beginner sewists!! I will walk you through each step so you can add fun color or print sleeves to any of your plain ol' solid color t-shirts!


My gorgeous jewelry is from African Promise Foundation. I have a dear friend who started this foundation years ago to provide education opportunities to children in Uganda. The beads are handmade from recycled paper. Each piece of jewelry is a unique and amazing work of art created by women trying to improve their family's opportunities. 


You will need: 
  • T-shirt
  • Seam ripper/ small, pointy-nose sharp scissors
  • Stretchy fabric--jersey knit, stretchy lace, poly-knit, etc.  Less than 1/4 yard will work for cap sleeves. If you want to use this tutorial to do long sleeves (This method will work!), you'll want more fabric--probably 1/3-1/2 yard). 
  • Corresponding thread
  • Straight sewing pins
  • Sewing machine (a serger is nice, but not necessary)



1. Remove the sleeves from your T-shirt.  Use a seam-ripper/ small-nosed scissors to rip out the seams.  


Here are the two sleeves removed (I left one folded). Don't rip out the seam for the hem around the cuff of the sleeve. 

2. Using one of the sleeves as a pattern, cut out two pieces of the contrasting fabric, adding on 1 inch to the cuff-side of the sleeve.

Here you see the two sleeves and the extra I added on the contrasting fabric. Since I am using lace for this project, I will be layering it over the original sleeves. If you are replacing the original sleeves completely, you'll still need the extra 1 inch. 

3. (This step is for doing an overlay with contrasting fabric. If you are replacing the sleeves completely, move on to the next step.) Pin the new sleeves (wrong side) to the old ones (right side). Sew along the long, curved side (not the cuff side).  Try to sew right along the old stitch marks. 

4. Use a zig-zag stitch (or serge stitch if available), to sew right along the edge of the contrasting fabric's shorter (cuff) side. This is to prevent fraying and help the cuff lay flat. Repeat for second sleeve.

5. Fold and pin the contrasting fabric over 1/2 inch, wrong sides together. 

6. Top stitch the new cuff in place. Here I am showing the right and wrong sides of the new sleeves after the top-stitch. 

7. Generously pin the new sleeves to the old t-shirt, right sides together. Stitch in place, turn right-side out, and you are done!! SO EASY, and now you have a new shirt!!



Participating in these link-ups. 

Monday, October 12, 2015

Fall Feather Garland



Living in the Pacific Northwest makes saying goodbye to summertime hard.  What we are really saying is "Hi, Rain. You are here for the next 5 months (at least)." 
I am embracing Autumn, though, and all that comes with it.  I love the colors. I love opening my blinds more often to let the (somewhat cloudy) sunshine in! My birthday is in the fall. So is Halloween and Thanksgiving!  And I love decorating my house with fall decor!

After putting together a wreath for my last post, Yarn Feather Tutorial, I decided to change out my Summer Flower Garland for a Fall Feather Garland! I am loving how it turned out!

I started by making a bunch of feathers using my tutorial.  I decided to trim most of the feathers, but leaving some un-trimmed also looks great. 

Each feather takes about 15-20 minutes. Put your feet up, put on some Netflix, and you'll have enough whipped out in no time! These represent about 2.5 hrs of work. 

Here they are trimmed up. Sharp scissors are key.

I used gold craft paint on a few, and I sprayed them with an acrylic sealer (not essential, but I'd like these to last!). Finally, I bent their stems (which is a covered pipe cleaner, so easily bent), and attached them to some bakers twine. So easy!







Participating in these link-ups.

Saturday, May 9, 2015

Ruffled T-Shirt Tutorial



I have a confession: I'm a bit of an online boutique junkie. I can shop for me, my kids, my mom, sisters, friends, neighbors--all from my home! And the styles are always so hip and trendy--so I (hopefully) don't look like I haven't been in a mall in over a year!

I have another confession: I'm a bit of a cheapskate.  If I see something at an online boutique that I could make fairly easily for a fraction of the price, I'm not buying it. This was the fuel behind my desire to make this trendy, fun, and flattering shirt. 
I saw similar shirts last week at an online boutique for $24. Not a bad deal, but I had a pretty good idea that I could make my own from a shirt and fabric I already had--so it would cost me $0!

Here's what you need: 
  • A solid-color, fitted t-shirt. (TIP: This is a great way to make use of any shirts that have little mouse-holes in the front around the bottom of the shirt.) 
  • 1/3 yard flowy/silky fabric--chiffon, modal, thin jersey knit, or poly-blend (You won't use all of this yardage, but if you are buying fabric from the store, I'd get this much. If you have scraps already, look ahead to the measurements to see if you have enough).
  • Chalk
  • Corresponding thread, scissors/rotary cutter, measuring tools, pins, sewing machine

Instructions: 
1. Put on the shirt and mark your waistline (at your navel) with chalk on the front of the shirt.

2. Mark the back of the shirt just above your bum. This will achieve the slightly high-low look (so the shirt falls lower in the back). 


3. Cut the back of the shirt from side seam to side seam.Then cut the front of the shirt starting at the side seam and curving up to the chalk mark and back down to the other side. 

4. Prepare your ruffle fabric. Measure the front of your shirt width. Multiply that by 4. This is how long your ruffle piece should be. Cut an 8 inch wide piece of fabric. If you need to piece two strips together, just make sure they are the same length. The seams can be lined up with the seams on the shirt when you attach it. 

5. Sew right sides together at the ends to make one big loop. Finish the edges of your fabric (if you are using a fabric that frays), with a rolled hem. 

6. Sew a gathering stitch along one edge of the fabric. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the ruffle to the same width as your shirt. 

7. Pin the ruffle to the shirt, wrong side of ruffle onto the right side of shirt.  Be generous with the pins. Be sure to match the seams of the ruffle to the shirt side seams. Sew a zig-zag top stitch across the pinned gathers to attach the ruffle to the shirt. I made two passes to make sure it was sewn securely. 

8. Measure and cut a 4 inch by 5 inch piece of fabric for the pocket. 

9. Press and pin a 1/4 inch double fold around the entire pocket back. I used one factory-finished edge, so I only did one fold on that side.  

10. Top stitch what will be the top of your pocket. 

11. Pin the pocket to your shirt. Again, be generous with your pin usage. You want your stitches to be small and close to the edge.

Done!  You have a fun and frilly shirt! Cute with jeans or shorts, pencil or maxi skirts! Great way to accentuate your true waistline and hide any "extra" you don't want to show off underneath! 




Friday, April 3, 2015

DIY Indigo Shibori Textile Dyeing

*This post contains affiliate links. All opinions expressed are my own. 

In this month's issue of InStyle magazine, COLOR is the theme. One of the colors highlighted is Classic Blue, and several indigo shibori pillows are shown. I was immediately drawn to them. I love color and I LOVE originality in my decor. This Japanese tie-dye technique seemed to be the perfect marriage of these two loves, so I got to work.

First, I learned that Japanese Shibori is an ancient method of folding, twisting, tying, and using wood to bind fabric before dyeing it. I used 3 methods here, but there are dozens. 

I was stoked to find a true all-in-one indigo dyeing kit on Amazon. All I needed was fabric and a bucket. Buy the kit, and you don't need any other dyeing materials. 




My cotton throw. I walk through the folding and binding steps to make this piece below.

I used the same method for this pillow case as with the throw, though my folds were more rectangular than square for this piece. 

For this pillow, I used a technique in which you pull the fabric up in the spot you want as the center of the circle, then wrap rubber bands from the tip of that point, going down. Don't twist the fabric as you pull it up. The rubber bands will create the white circles in the finished piece.



This kit will dye ALOT. The box says a couple dozen shirts, so after I dyed a couple of pillow cases and a blanket, I couldn't resist doing some clothing, too. I found a cute shibori dyed cropped jacket from Anthropologie (shown below), so I decided to dye one I found at the thrift store. Isn't it fun! I haven't worn tie-dye in public in a few years, but I really love how this turned out. 

My kids and a neighbor each dyed a shirt, too. Once you mix up the bucket of dye, it will keep for 3-4 days if it is covered. So no rush to do everyone's at once!

Now onto the tutorial....

Here is the contents of the dyeing kit. You'll need a 5 gallon bucket, and another plastic container of some kind to hold the wet fabric. I used a disposable pan lid (you know, those ones that come with the foil lasagne pans). 
I used the wood blocks, but not the popsicle sticks. After reading more about the variety of shibori methods, I see how the sticks could be fun to use in the future.

I recommend this be done outside. I'm not brave enough to have 5 gallons of dye anywhere in my house. I also recommend wearing an apron and clothes you don't care for too much. 
 Fill the bucket 3/4 of the way full with warm water. Add the three ingredients shown (blue dye and two white agents--soda ash and hydrosulfate) to the bucket.  Stir in a circle, scraping the bottom. (The kit doesn't come with a stir stick, so you'll need something to stir with. I used a dowel).  

Continue to stir in one direction and bubbles will form on the top of the water. Make a few turns in the opposite direction, and the bubbles will mostly come together in a bunch in the middle (as shown here). This is called the "flower" and is a bunch of gritty dark stuff that seems to help keep the dye preserved, but doesn't do the dying. Push the "flower" off to the side before you dip fabric.

Cover the dye bucket while you fold and bind your fabric. I just set a cookie sheet (bottom down) on top of the bucket to cover it.

This is my cotton throw pre-dyeing. Lay out your fabric/clothing flat.

Fold in an accordion fashion from one end to the other. You'll have a long strip of stacked fabric. The method I used to fold my cropped jacket stops the folding here and then wraps rubber bands around the long folded strip. For the throw and pillow I made with the grid-like patterns, there is one more step.

Fold the strip along the length in an accordion fashion.

Press wood blocks on either side of the folded fabric and use rubber bands to hold it in place. The placement of the blocks (aligning with the square of the fabric, or turned at an angle as I did it here) affects the final outcome. The kit comes with excellent diagrams of this.

Run the fabric under water, soaking thoroughly.  Put on your gloves, and dip the fabric in the bucket of dye. Agitate it with your stirring stick for several seconds to a couple minutes.  Pull it out of the dye and squeeze out the excess dye.

When you first pull it out, the fabric will appear a dark yellow or green. This is one of the fun parts of this dyeing method. As the indigo dye oxidizes, it turns from yellow, to green, to light blue, to blue. 

Here is my circle design pillow after it had been sitting for a minute or two. The green is starting to turn blue. Let it continue to oxidize for about 20 minutes, turning regularly to expose all sides to the air. 
At this point you can re-dip the fabric to achieve a darker blue, or move forward to rinsing and unwrapping.


Rinse the fabric lightly. It's normal to have some blue dye come out. Ring out, and then you can remove the rubber bands. Let the fabric continue to oxidize until it all the indigo has emerged. (These are my son's non-gloved hands. Oops. The dye had mostly set, so his hands weren't too blue.) 

Using a mild detergent, wash the fabric in cool water and dry. I tumble dried mine on low. 

Here are a few helpful tips to know as you do your own Indigo Shibori project: 
  • The tighter you wrap your fabric, the more contrast you'll have between the indigo and the original fabric color. If you want to have more "bleed" and gradient blue color, leave the folds and rubber bands looser. 
  • Wear the gloves. This is non-toxic dye, but you will have Smurf hands if you don't wear the gloves.
  • Achieve darker shades by dyeing, letting oxidize (still wrapped up), then dying again--like coats of paint.
  • When decorating with Indigo Shibori, don't feel like it needs to perfectly match your room already. Indigo is such a rich color, it acts almost as a neutral (think blue jeans). 
  • This dye is for natural fibers (cotton, silk, wool). Synthetics may not respond as well to the dye. Be sure to test synthetics or synthetic blends before dyeing.
  • When you are done, you can just dump the dye down the sink. It is non-toxic, so no harm done. Just don't let it splash on anything you don't want dyed. :)