The Bowerbird Shift Pattern Review

I tested this cowl neck dress or top pattern back in October.  It is a lovely design, with a flowy feel, a flattering tie-waist, and pockets (even on the shirt version!). 

Lindsey from Sew To Grow is the designer. I have tested a few of her other patterns (The Bondi Top, The Noosa Shift), and once again, I was impressed.  Lindsey is thorough in her instructions, so that even a novice sewist could handle this construction. 

I made the dress first, and liked it so much that I decided to make a top as well.  Every time I wear this dress, I receive compliments on it. 

Did I say how much I love that it has pockets??

I used a light rayon print for this dress.  I found similar here and here. 

For the Bowerbird shirt, I used a synthetic grey knit (similar here).  When I make another dress or top, I will use a knit again. I really love the way the cowl neck naturally falls with the knit fabric. 

To purchase this pattern, go here:

Sew To Grow Etsy

or 

Sew To Grow (AU)

The Bondi Top Pattern Review

I have a friend named Lindsey Rae who designs patterns, and I have been a pattern tester for her in 

the past (see my Noosa Shift Dress Pattern Review). Her patterns are amazingly simple, well-written, thoroughly tested, and flattering on any figure. 

The Bondi Top was the pattern that really launched her career as a designer, so I have been excited to try it out. I finally made my first Bondi Top a couple of weeks ago, and I loved it so much that I made myself 2 more!

Why I love this pattern: 

• It is downloadable (available HERE from Etsy). Pattern downloads are super easy to store and replicate if you want to make new sizes. 
• It is adjustable for size AND length. I have a long torso, so I added 2 inches to the length and loved the result!
• It is a tad bit longer in the back than the front, which makes for a flattering fit. 
• It has a contrasting fabric option. Don't you LOVE the additional print design on each of the shirts?! 
• And probably my favorite feature: It requires NO notions. No zippers, buttons, ties, or hooks. Just fabric and thread. 

I used 3 different types of fabric for my shirts: lightweight cotton for the yellow and blue shirt above; rayon for the next shirt pictured; and a woven cotton/poly fabric for the third shirt. 

Similar lightweight cottons to those in my yellow and blue shirt can be found HERE.

 This silky rayon is dreamy to wear. It was more time-consuming to sew because I had to pin more since the fabric is more slippery, but it was worth every minute. Similar fabric can be found HERE. 

This was such a fun fabric. It has that Aztec/Peruvian blanket or poncho style, but is less heavy. Similar woven fabric can be found HERE. The contrast fabric is a woven cotton linen/twill; similar (but without print) found HERE.

My colorful and original jewelry is from one of my favorite charities, African Promise Foundation. I know the founder and can vouch for this organization's commitment to bettering the lives of the less-fortunate through beautiful hand-made jewelry sales. 

Cut-Up Workout T-Shirt Tutorial

Do you have old, boxy t-shirts you'd wear to exercise in if they only had a more flattering fit?  This easy, no-sew tutorial will teach you how to alter (and ventilate! ;-)) your t-shirts into two different styles of cute workout tops--perfect for lifting, climbing, dancing, riding, squatting, jumping, punching, kicking, running or walking!

I teach an exercise class a couple of mornings each week, and several gals who attend asked me about these shirts.  I told them to bring shirts and scissors to class one day, and we did a live tutorial right there in the gym after class!  Two of my favorite things combined into one class!! I was on Cloud 9!

Now, on to your tutorial:

All you need for either of these styles is a cotton jersey knit t-shirt and sharp fabric scissors. 

Style 1: Back Diamond Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay shirt out flat.

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.

4. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams and flattening. 

5. Beginning at the top of the back side, cut 1 inch wide strips all the way down the back. Start with pretty deep strips--4-5 inches from the fold (they will double when you unfold). Then gradually get smaller as you work your way down. My last cut is usually only about 1 inch deep. 

6. Turn shirt so the back is on top. Stretch out cuts so the fabric rolls in on itself. 

7. Take top strip and make a loop. 

8. Take next strip and pull it up through the top loop.

9. Make a loop with the strip you just pulled through. 

10. Continue looping and pulling the strip below through all the way down the shirt. 

11. Leave the last strip loose. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

14. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

15. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

16. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip. 

17. Finished back!

18. Finished front!

Style 2: Side Weave T-Shirt

1. Lay t-shirt out flat. 

2. Cut through top and bottom layers of shirt along bottom of front neckline. 

3. Cut one sleeve off; then turn the piece you cut off to use as a guide for cutting off the second sleeve.
4. Beginning 1 inch below the sleeve opening, cut 1 inch wide slits into the sides of the shirt. I begin with about 2 inch slits, gradually get bigger toward the middle of the shirt, then taper back to smaller slits at the end. My last cut is only about 1 inch across.
5. Turn shirt on its side, lining up shoulder seams.
6. Stretch the strips so the fabric curls in on itself.
7. Pick up the top strip (this should be the bottom part of the sleeve), and turn a single loop in it.
8. Pull the next strip up through the loop.
9. Turn a loop in the strip you just pulled through and continue pulling and turning all the way down the shirt. 

10. When you get to the bottom, leave the last strip alone.

11. Cut the bottom strip in half. 

12. Take the second to last strip (that is pulled through the one above it) and make sure it is turned in a loop.

13. Pull one side of the bottom strip up through the bottom of the last loop.

14. Pull the other side of the bottom strip down through the top of the last loop. 

15. Tie a double knot with the two sides of the bottom strip.
16. One side: DONE!
17. Repeat on other side.
18. Cute workout top!

  

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Peter Pan Collar Ruched Blouse Tutorial

I have had this darling polka-dot chiffon fabric for over a year, waiting for the right  amazing inspiration to hit me. I considered a skirt (which would've been adorbs!!), but I have a TON of skirts, and I'm always wanting new, original tops to wear.

I am SO in LOVE with the Peter Pan collars that are popping up on blouses everywhere, and I am totally digging all the lace overlays and inlays being added to every kind of clothing.

SO... I decided to do a bit of both with this sensational easy-to-make blouse!

Whether you are an experienced or newly-budding sewist, this tutorial will be a surprising cinch. I'll walk you through each step!

You will need: 

• Chiffon Fabric:  26" wide x 60" length.  If you are shopping, one yard should be enough. Knits, silks, or other light-weight flowing fabrics would also work. 
• Lace trim, gathered: 3/4 yard of  1.5-2" wide. I used cotton eyelet lace.
• Elastic thread
• Scissors; Corresponding thread; Chalk for marking; Sewing pins; Sewing machine 

1. Fold fabric in half (wrong sides together) to make a 26" wide x 30" long rectangle. Find the center of the width and mark it at the fold with chalk. (I laid chalk here so you could see it clearly.)

2. Measure 4 inches on each side of the center and mark with chalk. Measure 3-4 inches down (depending on how low you want your neckline), and mark with chalk. Draw a line connecting the three marks to make a half-circle. This is your front neckline.

3. Measure and mark 4 inches down from the upper left and right fold corners. 

4. Draw chalk lines connecting the side marks to the each end of the neckline. These are your shoulder lines.

5. Make a mark 1.5-2  inches down from the center point along the fold.

6. Draw a curved line from the ends of the neckline to the mark you just made. This is the back neckline.

7. Cut along the TOP curved chalkline through BOTH layers of fabric.

8. Cut along the BOTTOM curved chalkline through only the TOP layer of fabric.

9. Cut along the shoulder lines through BOTH layers of fabric.

10. Turn fabric to right sides together (RST). Sew the shoulder lines together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.

11. Turn fabric to right sides out. Sew a rolled hem around the neckline. 

10. Pin the lace around the neckline. I left extra at the end because pinning around a curve with gathered lace is not an exact science. I had to do some re-positioning at the end. Fold the ends of the lace under and at an angle to make the "Peter Pan" shape to the collar. Pin in place. Sew a topstitch along the top of the lace first, then carefully topstitch along the outside edges of the entire collar. (I did this as my very last step for this blouse, but you may as well do it now since you'll already have the right thread in your machine).

11. Measure and mark 9 inches down from the corner of the shoulder. From there, draw a line 3 inches horizontally. From there, draw a straight line to the bottom of the fabric.

12.  Repeat #11 for the other side of the blouse front. 

13. Cut through both layers of fabric along the chalk lines you just drew. (It's starting to look like a shirt, huh?)

14. Draw a curved line beginning 4 inches above the bottom corner down to 4 inches along the bottom edge. Cut through both layers of fabric along this line.

15. Fold the blouse in half along the length, and use the curve you just cut to draw an identical one on the other side. Cut along this line through both bottom layers of fabric.

16. This is what your shirt should look like (folded in half) at this point. Unfold for the next step. Turn right sides together.

16. With RST, pin along the bottom of both sleeves and sides of the blouse, ending at the top of the  curve. 

17. Put ELASTIC THREAD in the bobbin of your sewing machine. This is the key to making this shirt "ruched." With a 1/4" seam allowance, sew along the bottom of the sleeve to the top of the curve at the bottom of the shirt on both sides (where you just pinned in #16). Tie off with a back-stitch at the beginning and end. 

18. Sew a rolled hem along the sleeve edges. 

19. Sew a rolled hem around the bottom of the blouse. 

You are done! 

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How To Alter a Man's Shirt to a Woman's Shape

I love that collared shirts are in style. They are versatile, comfortable, and can easily dress up a casual outfit. Unfortunately, however, I don't have many. And most that I do have are too short for today's style.  So I decided to hit the local thrift store in search of men's shirts (so they'd be nice and long) to alter to my needs. 

Here is the man-shirt pre-altering. I bought this on half-off at Goodwill for $3. Pretty big and shape-less, huh?  But it has good arm length and fun, unusual pockets, so I was hoping for some potential. It's important to choose a shirt that isn't way too big in the collar or arm-length because those are not easily altered.

Now on to the altering process. It is SO quick and easy. If you are a sewing rookie, this would be a good way to get your feet wet.

1. Turn the shirt inside out and flatten along the seam on the inside of the arm and torso. 

 

2. Use chalk to draw a smooth line along the seam the amount you'd like to take the shirt in. Blend the ends of your chalk line into the existing seams prior to the cuff and base of the shirt.  If you are unsure of how much to take in, lay a shirt that fits as you would like this one to, and trace along that shirt's outline.

3. Cut along the lines you drew.

4. Lay the piece you cut out from the first side along the opposite edge to use as a guide to draw another chalk line.

5. Cut along the chalk line.

6. Pin the edges together, being sure to line up the cross seams at the armpit. Sew the new edges closed, blending into the existing seams at each end. I used a serger, but if you don't have a serger, a zig-zag stitch outside your first straight stitch will help prevent fraying.

Here it is all sewn up, but still inside out. It actually looks like a woman's shirt now!

Now I have a "new" shirt! 

Go thrift-store shopping or raid your hubby's closet and enjoy!

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